Hurghada, Egypt

Birds and Egypt, two words that you don't see together that often! To be honest with you it was not my first choice for a winter break either. January is always a busy month for me as I am normally living in a deserted hotel overseeing the refurbishment and maintenance work of two hotels nestled on a North Cornwall coastal headland. Beautiful spot but a stressful period for me! One way that I mentally prepare myself for this period is to ensure I have a weeks holiday booked into my rota allowing for a break in sunnier climes during February. Only this year I messed up! I had the dates booked off work but had yet to choose a destination. I had certain criteria that needed to be met! Firstly she who must be obeyed wanted a comfortable sunbed, as much heat and sunshine as you can throw at her and my only requirement is that I needed to see some new bird species to assist in swelling my Western Palearctic bird list! I requested this from a distance and ensured that her mood seemed calm and that she did not have anything to hand that could be launched at me should this minor request not fit with her plans! Now I am going to be honest here and let you know that I had my heart set on Fuerteventura as there were a couple of good birds lingering such as Dwarf Bittern and Tristrams Warbler that would have sat very nicely on my list. However, after some research and discussion with friends "she who must be obeyed" decided that it was going to be too windy and cold. A disagreement was starting to form on our final destination, flights from the south west airports were all booked up and it was turning into another stressful disaster that I could just do without! I pulled the plug and suggested that we just wait and book something that made more sense later in the spring. She decided to have one last look at if she couldn't find anything suitable then we would leave it! I was disappointed but the decision made sense. The following morning I recieved a call at work saying that she had found a location that might suit us both, Hurghada in Egypt. I was skeptical and could find very little on the likely bird life to be found in the area, but what I did see whetted my appetite and I thought that if nothing else I would get some much needed sunshine and the break that I was craving!

So on the evening of the 18th of February we were driving towards Gatwick airport were we slept for a few hours before our flight the next morning. The flight was around 5 hours with little drama and we arrived at our hotel before we knew it and started to settle in. We moved rooms after the original that we had been given just wasn't in great shape and also had two single beds rather than the double requested. In fairness too the hotel it was very little trouble and once in our new room we were very happy! The accommodation was satisfactory and once all of the minor issues had been ironed out we were very happy there. For more information on the resort please see here: www.jasminepalaceresort.com

So, regarding the birds. To simplify things I have broken it down to two sections. Firstly what I found at the resort itself and then I had two days with a booked guide and travelled further afield.

The resort gardens were a work of art and very carefully managed and landscaped. They were fantastic for bird life and everyday they were abundant with a variety of species that any birders from the UK or Europe would be delighted to see. The other beautiful scenario was that the resort gardens led to a private beach overlooking the Red Sea.

The gardens homed countless Red-throated Pipits and throughout the day there well over 50 birds present offering spectacular views and the opportunity to study the species at close hand. I enjoyed this as I had only previously had one encounter with a single bird in Cornwall that flew over calling a couple of years ago. The pipits were joined by lots of White Wagtail and towards the end of my stay a stonking Black-headed Wagtail was present for a couple of days.

Having so many Pipits around allowed for detailed study of the species in a variety of plumage types.

I was delighted to observe this Black-headed Wagtail feeding quite relaxed on one of the lawns.

The lawns and lush foliage also attracted a lot of Bluethroats. Where you would expect to see a Robin at home a Bluethroat would take its place in Hurghada. Studying these also led to me finding small numbers of Moustached Warblers that were taking advantage of the feeding opportunity that the foliage offered. Warblers were abundant and every bush and plant seemed to have a Chiffchaff feeding from it. Small numbers of Willow Warbler could also be observed but nowhere near as common as the former species. I was also amazed at the quantity of Lesser Whitethroat, almost as common as Chiffchaff and seemed to be just about everywhere that you looked. They would also frequently have a slanging match with the resident Sardinian Warblers which led to some rather conspicuous verbal assaults reminiscent of a war scene with lots of tacking and rattling from each species.

Bluethroat was a common sight.

Moustached Warblers could be observed with some patience. 

Sardinian Warbler.

Lesser Whitethroat was abundant and would often cause upset when near a Sardinian Warbler. 

Chiffchaff was a very common species

My first lifer came on the first morning, a lovely Laughing Dove was observed drinking from a puddle on the pathway and several more were noted around the resort. I loved seeing them as they are not only a joy to look at but have wonderful personalities and are a pleasure to watch. 

Laughing Dove were present throughout my stay.

Hirundines were also observed, albeit not masses of any particular species but variety was good. Sand and House Martin were seen several times, Barn and Red-rumped Swallow appeared resident in the area. Spanish Sparrow could be observed in the large flock of House Sparrows that frequented the beach end of the resort. Numbers of Spanish Sparrow seemed to swell in the later part of my weeks stay suggesting that migrants were starting their return journey north. Hooded Crow were also present 24 hours a day and could be approachable whilst feeding on the lawns. 

Hooded Crow could be approachable when feeding on the lawns.

The real star of the show located in the gardens and observed a number of times was the Nile Valley Sunbird! What a beautiful creature and a species that I thought I would not see on this trip due to them being restricted to the Nile Valley. I must admit when I first set eyes on it I was in total awe. Such a pleasure to behold and a real birding highlight for me.   

Nile Valley Sunbird is a true avian master piece!

As mentioned earlier the gardens led to a beach on the edge of the Red Sea. A beautiful spot and very well managed sun beds were an idyllic February setting especially as temperatures touched 30 degrees. I was amazed and delighted to encounter my third lifer of the trip, a pale phase Reef Heron was fishing in the shallows of the beach. I genuinely expected to have to work a little harder for this species and was relieved to see it so early in the holiday.

Pale phase Reef Heron was frequently found fishing around the beach of the Resort.

The Beach and Pier

A pier jutted some distance into the Red Sea and either side revealed very shallow banks that became exposed at times but not routinely as you would find around the British coast. These exposed areas were excellent for waders and held superb numbers of Ringed and Kentish Plovers. Other regular species that were present included Green Sandpiper, Curlew, Redshank and Greenshank. All were observed on each visit.

Kentish and Ringed Plover were both abundant around the beach at the resort.

However, the pièce de résistance came in the form of over 50 Greater Sandplover, a new species for me. What was fantastic was the ability to get very close views for quite long periods of time. It was great fun learning about this species and was impressed with its ability to move some distance on foot so quickly. 

I really enjoyed watching this species and learning about its structure and characteristics. 

At the end of the Pier was a cluster of old metal frame works that jutted out of the sea. They made cracking roosting spots for passing gulls and terns, most of which happened to be new species for me! The first bird that I encountered here was the infamous White-eyed Gull. A real Red Sea speciality and quite the looker! This is unlike any other gull I had seen before and I was taken aback just how special it is. After a few minutes taking in this species I encountered another breath taking looker, Crested Tern. Wow just Wow, what a bird! I will hold my hands up now and let you know that Tern's are not my strong point and is a family group that I need to hone my knowledge of moving forward. However, I knew straightaway that this was a new species for me! During the later part of my visit the regular Crested Terns were joined by three smaller birds that to all intents and purposes were very similar but structurally were much smaller. Once I got home and studied the species I now believe that these were Lesser Crested Tern. (see pictures below). Caspian Tern was also seen daily around the beach but always just flying through and never settling like the Crested Terns. 

Worth every penny to get to Hurghada to see this species! 

Crested Terns were present everyday at the beach Pier

A suspected Lesser Crested Tern present on one day only with two other individuals. 

In the middle of the week there was a particularly strong wind blowing onshore during an early morning visit. This blew in a near adult Sooty Gull that flew to another Pier located some distance from me which was a shame as I would have liked a photo for my records. Whilst chatting with the local guide that I hired later in the week he informed me that they are not that common around Hurghada early in the year, so don't expect to see one it is not guaranteed! The same morning whilst sitting on the end of the Pier hoping more interesting observations might occur my peripheral vision picked up movement to my left. I turned to see a small Heron species flying from the adjacent Pier to the one I was on. A binocular view later confirmed what I had been hoping for, Striated Heron. What a little beauty it was too. Most of the birds observed in the area are of the chocolate brown form and are truly sublime. I was delighted and still smile when I remember that encounter.

A wonderful encounter with this glorious Striated Heron! 

The Pier and beach were also productive for other species and it was great to witness two Osprey squabbling overhead. They were in the area on most days and seemed to utilise the Piers to there advantage. A Kingfisher was seen on one occasion fishing, but only the one observation made me wonder if this was perhaps a bird on passage? Two Common Cranes passing overhead that were picked up by my better half were a joy to behold but did leave me questioning my bird finding abilities as I really should have been more aware of their presence long before I was pipped to the post!

I have purposefully left one species till last for two reasons. Firstly, it was perhaps the species that I revered the most that was located by the sea. Secondly, it was the hardest to give itself up! The species in question is the Brown Booby. I had two sightings of this species that frustrated me no end. Both times involved me walking to the beach and scanning out to the end of the Pier that was a couple of hundred meters long and seeing my prize happily roosting on the metal framework. Both times I darted up to the end as fast as my fat arse could travel, only to witness it sailing off into the distance and not returning for the rest of the day! It was hard work drinking cocktails on a sun lounger and eagerly anticipating the arrival of your subject ready for its photo shoot, I can tell you! I spent five days convincing myself that it didn't matter, I had seen the species and a photo would be nice but it wasn't essential. On one of my final days I was at peace with the situation and would happily travel home without the photos I wanted. Then low and behold late one afternoon in it sails and starts roosting again. I grabbed my bridge camera and made my way to the end of the Pier like a chubby Usain Bolt. Finally it was just me and him with no noisey tourists distracting it or pushing it off into the sunset! What a beauty, a real prehistoric beast. I was delighted to see it so close and personal and was really up there as one of the birds of the trip for me.

What a beast! So happy to see this fellow up close and personal. 

Towards the end of the week I had prearranged to meet with a local guide called Mohamed Habib. Before I tell you about our two days together I would just like to add that he is an amazingly talented ornithologist that has made some very important discoveries, putting Egypt well and truly on the map for any avid Western Palearctic lister. He was not only excellent in the field but splendid company. I cannot recommend him highly enough. If you would be interested in his services please drop me an e-mail and I will happily pass your details on.

Mohamed picked me up from the resort and gently drove us for the day (I use the word gently as Egypt is not renowned for calm or pleasant taxi rides)! We headed on our way through some arid land as you would expect to see in Egypt once moving away from the water rich coast. It wasn't long before I seen my first lifer in his company. The Brown-necked Raven, a true desert specialist that I hoped I would encounter.

The distinctive species is fairly common sight when driving around the main roads near Hurghada.

We soon arrived at our destination and within a few miles of the intended location I knew where we were heading as, what appeared to be a green lush oasis was looming ahead. On arriving Mohamed burst my bubble! It wasn't a picturesque Oasis but the local sewage works. But boy after a few moments in the location I knew it was the next best thing. A Squacco Heron was observed as we entered the tall vegetation and soon took flight as we neared in the vehicle. Mohamed let the local warden know of our intentions and we were soon on our way to the hot spot. I must admit that I was getting a bit agitated as we drove past some cracking habitat and pools that surely held a goody or two. I was soon put to ease as we rounded the first corner and I could see why Mohamed was so keen to make progress. I don't think that I can put into words what I witnessed! The shallow pools of the sewage works were thick in thousands of Gulls!

Just a really special location for any Gull lover! 

We started scanning and discussing the species that we were seeing. The vast majority were Caspian Gulls with some really classic looking Steppe Gulls amongst them. Baltic Gulls were also common and I loved seeing these in the field and getting a feel for the structure and plumage characteristics to hopefully utilise back home in Cornwall! Mohamed picked out a Yellow-legged Gull amongst the vast flock and then got me on to a classic adult Armenian Gull. Another lifer for me! I was beaming but the best was still to come. Mohamed parked up so that I could scan the birds a little better and as I was working through the flock I stumbled across a giant! A Pallas's Gull in all its glory. I like Gull's a lot, but I loved this one. A truly magnificent beast that even the most repulsed anti gull lover would struggle not to be impressed by! What a bird and what a memorable lifer. I was ecstatic. 

Adult Armenian Gull

Steppe Gull

    

The giant Pallas's Gull. What a bird! 

Once we had our fill of the Gulls we headed back to the other pools for a scan. As you would expect Coot and Moorhen inhabited them. I was amazed to see quite a substantial number of Teal and Shoveler not something I would have associated with Egypt prior to my visit. Another lifer soon revealed itself a pair of Spur-winged Plover could be seen in the distance squealing at our presence.

A rather vocal Spur-winged Plover.

One of the pools located at the Sewage Works

As we were driving back out of the sewage works I picked up an unfamiliar call and in the distance could see a flock of around twenty Sandgrouse flying towards one of the central pools. Mohamed had soon sorted them out and identified them as Spotted Sandgrouse. Yet another lifer and a pleasure to witness!

Spotted Sandgrouse heading in for a morning drink.

We had a drive around the nearby farmland and picked up a Steppe Buzzard circling up on a thermal. A few common species were present but nothing notably different baring a Stonechat that was new for my trip. We decided to head to the next location. On driving out of the works I picked up on two raptors. The first revealed itself to be a Long-legged Buzzard which I was delighted to see as the only other encounter I have had of the Species was in Southern Spain and the origins and authenticity of the species in this area is questionable! The second raptor was much bigger but much further away. We tried in vain to get closer and sort it out but to no avail! Sadly it had slipped the net and would have to be left unidentified.

Stonechat

We headed to a nearby man made Mangrove and on the way stopped off at a golf course. There were lots of species here many of which I had already caught up with in the similar habitat found out the resort where I was staying. However, a House Crow could be seen in the distance. This was a species that I thought I had fly over the resort by was pleased to get one on the ground so that I could confirm my suspicions.

Distant views of the distinctive House Crow.

The man made mangrove was an interesting location and we soon added Black-winged Stilt to our day list and another magnificent Pallas's Gull. It was a great location that has an interesting history and will turn up some truly magical species if regularly watched.

Black-winged Stilt

A second Pallas's Gull

We headed back and Mohamed asked what I would like to do. I felt that I had unfinished business with the large raptor that we had witness earlier in the day. I asked if we could go back that way and see what we turn up. It was a decision that neither of us would regret!

We started driving down the road towards the area that we suspected it was located in the morning. It wasn't long before I picked a similar looking species on the wing again. Mohamed headed in its direction and told me not to take my eyes off it. As we got closer I started picking up a few more large raptors! Wow this was looking promising. Soon we were at the entrance to the main rubbish dump located a few kilometers outside of Hurghada. Mohamed started negotiating with the manager and before I knew it I was inside a Rubbish Dump in Egypt! It sure was worth it though as it was raptor central and I was soon watching several Black Kites and more importantly several Steppe Eagles! What a place and well worth following up on my hunch! After a few photos and some viewing time we were conscious of not out staying our welcome and we headed home.

What a magnificent sight, multiple Steppe Eagles! 

Mohamed Habib (on the right) negotiating right of passage to the Rubbish Dump!

Day two saw us heading in the opposite direction to some more established Mangrove swamps. After about 45 minutes of driving we reached our first location. We did a little more off road driving which allowed me to study some of the local Wheatears. Northern was very common and could be seen in most suitable locations with little effort. Amongst these I soon picked up another lifer, Issabeline Wheatear. A lovely little species that I had longed to study and I was not disappointed. Black-eared and Dessert Wheatear where also viewed during the course of the day which I was pleased with.

Wheatears were abundant including Black-eared and Issabeline. 

The Mangroves were amazing and we were soon in the thick of it and watching the elusive Eastern Olivaceous Warblers that frequented the area. Mohamed informed me that these birds were studied recently and could potentially be a different species as they were smaller and vocalised differently to nominate Olivaceous Warblers. We had a brief view of a Pied Kingfisher that alighted in front of the car. Sadly I could only manage a photo through the windscreen but it was a magical sight nonetheless and indeed a lifer.

Sadly the only photo I could manage of this wonderful bird.

We moved on to another spot where I was soon looking at a dark phase Reef Heron, a real handsome individual and I was pleased that I had seen both forms. Hirundines were frequenting the Mangrove that was obviously abundant with insect life, it seemed that all of the common species that I had observed back at the resort were present. I then picked out two Martins that I thought were going to be Sand Martins. As they changed angle I could see that the belly and flanks appeared dirty which set off alarm bells. I studied the birds and after several more close passes confirmed that they were not Sand Martin's. I got Mohamed on the birds and although he did not see them as well as I had he suspected that they were Brown throated Martins. When I returned home I did some research and am happy that this is what they were. Another unexpected lifer!

Dark phase Reef Heron

As we were leaving the Mangroves some passerines were feeding in the distance and I could pick out some White Wagtails and quite a few Short-toed Larks. Mohamed took a phone call and I was content studying the larks. After a minute or two another lark joined the group it was nondescript, sandy in colour and had a hefty bill. It was certainly not a species that I had encountered before! I referred to the field guide and was happy to confirm that it was a Desert Lark. Not really in its normal habitat but larks were obviously on the move as the Short toed Larks were in large flocks and not normally found in the area in such numbers.

Short-toed Larks were on the move.

 

Mohammed suggested that if it was ok with me that we head back to the rubbish dump and take a closer look at the eagles. I was more than happy with this. On arrival we made our way in and it was alive with them! Mohamed alarmed that I needed to get on an Eagle that had just flown as it was a Greater Spotted! Boom, I was on it and watched it sail away. We started to drive around and I was amazed at just how many were present at least 40 Steppe Eagle! They offered fantastic views and it was an incredible sight that will remain with me until my dying day. My final lifer for the trip was pointed out by Mohamed sitting above us with a Steppe Eagle. It was the Lesser Spotted Eagle this time. I must admit that I did not get my head around the finer points of Eagle identification and it is something that I hope I have the opportunity to learn in the future.

Greater Spotted Eagle

          

Steppe Eagles are captivating and this birding highlight will stay with me forever!

I ended my weeks stay on just under eighty species and had over twenty Western Palearctic lifers! The holiday was affordable and the hospitality and quality in the area was better than expected. I will venture back to Egypt really soon as Mohamed is able to provide a specially designed tour to see some of the hard to get species that every Western Palearctic lister dreams of. I cannot wait for it!