Scandinavian Success - A truly rewarding birding trip to Finland and Norway

 Introduction

After two years confined to birding within the UK due to Covid restrictions, travel nightmares and work commitments Bob and I were keen to get our butts back on a plane seat and continue our exploration of the western palearctic and the bird species found within it. Now sane birders out there would have punted for a leisurely tour in Morocco, Israel or some other temperate country that has a species list as long as your arm. But we (in our infinite wisdom), decided that the Arctic Circle and heavy forestation were the right combination to kick off our post lockdown explorations! Were we mad? I will let you reach that conclusion after you hear about our latest western palearctic exploration.

So, on the 7^th of May we set off from Cornwall to Heathrow Airport where the next morning we would catch our flight to Helsinki in Finland and then a connecting flight from here to Oulu. Fast forward 24 hours and we had arrived at the Oulu terminal and picked up our higher car and started heading north to our first destination. It was around 10pm but with very long daylight hours it felt like the middle of the day!

Day 1 – 8^th May 2022

We had a loose game plan and decided that as we were feeling pretty fresh and keen to make a dent in the long drive north, we would start heading that way and stop to recuperate as and when we needed too. Thankfully it was such an exciting and eventful journey that adrenalin soon kicked in as we encountered all sorts of amazing wildlife spectacles and resting was the last thing that either of us wanted to do!

As we cruised along superb roads through forestation of varying age, the verges seemed to be alive with countless Woodcock that were obviously laying claims to territories and eyeing up the local competition. A bonus White-tailed Eagle gave brief views as it sailed over us, and I was soon bringing the car to a screeching halt as I encountered my first “lifer” of the trip. What at first looked like an upcoming roadside boulder in the near distance turned out to be a pristine female Capercaillie! What an incredible looking bird and I wasn’t quite prepared for just how magnificent they are both in structure and in their masterful plumage. 

The lifers didn’t stop there, as about 30 minutes later, near Lammaskoski we caught site of an unusual Owl species flying that neither of us could identify without the aid of optics. Although at an awkward angle, Bob did a top job and managed to get his bins on it to confirm our suspicions that it was in fact a Ural Owl. That wasn’t the last of the new species, but this time they came in mammalian form. As we started to get into more northern climes, we started seeing our first Mountain Hares that ranged from pure white to a subtle blue/grey. They would be a common feature throughout Finland and Norway which was also true of Reindeer! Sometimes you needed quick reactions whilst driving as it wasn’t unusual to turn a corner or summit a hill to find a small party of these Reindeer meandering in the road and never seemingly in a hurry! My last lifer to come on the overnight drive was a bit of a shock as it was completely unexpected, and I was unprepared on the shear size. As we passed through forests and encountered some agricultural fields a huge dark shape caught my attention. On closer inspection it was an incredible European Elk! Not sure my verbal description to Bob would make it into any identification guides but I still ascertain “a Shire Horse with a huge Deer head stuck on it” is a good summary of this immense animal.

Mountain Hares were common place in most areas that we stayed or frequented.

Another common occurrence were the herds of Rein Deer often in the middle of the road! 

After around 7 hours of driving, we had reached Neljän Tuulen Tupa Café. It was around 3 30 am and it was a welcome relief to stop the car, as the final hour had seen us driving through some substantial snow blizzards. Bear in mind though that it was perfect daylight, as "darkness” only lasted for about three and half hours and never really got much blacker than dusk at home! Our plan was to rest up and spend the remainder of the night sleeping in the car and then wake up and have breakfast and refreshments in the café whilst overlooking the garden full of feeders and the many lifers that use them. You can find out more about this spot on their website found here: https://www.neljantuulentupa.com/en/ However, on arrival we noticed a sign on the door that said the place was closed for the week as the owners were on vacation themselves. Damn it, our first plan had been scuppered!

Whilst milling around the carpark and deciding what was the best thing to do next, we noticed two things. Firstly, it was unbelievably cold when the car engine and heating were turned off and it only took a few minutes to feel your bones starting to chill. Secondly, there was a big flock of birds above the café in the trees and bushes and they seemed to be fixated on a patch of ground at one end of the property and we needed to investigate! As we edged the car closer, we couldn’t believe our luck as we cast our eyes on a large gathering of finch’s feeding on a large pile of discarded seeds. What made it even more exciting was that a large portion of the flock seemed to be made up of Pine Grosbeak which was a lifer for us both and the reason that this particular café has such a great international reputation within the birding community. We were delighted to see 4 or 5 individuals, but it soon became apparent that there were over 50 visiting this free food source and if I didn’t see another lifer for the rest of the week, I would have left Finland a happy man as they are just really stunning and worth the trip alone. 

Pine Grosbeak is a must see bird for every birder and Neljän Tuulen Tupa Café is the perfect place to do just that! 

That said, the flock of birds still had a number of surprises, and our attention soon turned to the mass of Redpolls, that on closer inspection harbored substantially numbers of both Common and Arctic’s and included some really handsome “snow ball” males; a sight to behold in their own subtle glory! We continued to watch the flock with great delight and had great views of the Brambling and Yellowhammer to add to the myriad of colours and excitement.

Handsome Arctic Redpolls were also abundant at the Cafe feeding on the plentiful seed on offer.

But unbeknown to us an hour had passed, and our attention was grabbed by some people leaving the café. It transpired that they were Dutch birders who managed to secure the accommodation over night and had been watching the secluded feeders for a couple of hours before heading north for the day themselves. They kindly explained the layout of the property and suggested that we head to the other side of the building as the feeders could be viewed from a nearby path and despite the freezing conditions, it could well be worth it as they had seen Siberian Tit’s at least twice that morning! Not ones for passing up the opportunity of a lifer we opted to get wrapped up and head to the vantage point. After 5 minutes of standing still and patiently waiting we both realised that if you think you have enough layers on in northern Finland it is always worth popping on a couple more as it was mind numbingly cold. A welcome distraction from said temperatures, came from a Red Squirrel that scuttled around the wooden building edging its way to the feeders where numerous Grosbeak’s, Redpoll, Brambling and Great Tit were feeding. I was just getting to the point of giving up and heading for warmth when Bob exclaimed “I have one”! Sure enough, a pair of Siberian Tit flicked from tree-to-tree overhead. What little beauties and made the freezing conditions worth every agonizing minute. Whilst we probably could have spent all day enjoying the spectacle that this locality has on offer it was time to give the fingers and toes some deserved warmth and then decide if our quest for more lifers was more important than sleeping!  

Red Squirrel proved to be a nice distraction from the bitter cold whilst waiting for our intended target.

When back at the car and with the heater pumped up to maximum heat, we whipped out our “Gosney” guide to see what else was on offer in the nearby vicinity and just 20 kilometres up the road was a supposedly good spot for another potential lifer for me. I am not sure whether it was the excitement from seeing so many new birds at once or the time spent in the cold conditions, but we were still happy to keep pushing on for the time being despite the lack of sleep and long hours of driving. It was well worth it though as just 15 minutes later we pulled up in a layby near to Utsjoki and it didn’t take long to spot our target as we set eyes on a pair of Rough-legged Buzzards circling around a forest clearing and giving me the opportunity to study them in detail and lay this long overdue lifer to rest. The whole area was great for birds, and we picked up our first Willow Tit of the trip here as an added bonus.

With things going so smoothly and us feeling the need to make the most of our good fortune we opted to carry on and head ever closer to Norway. It seemed that there was something noteworthy at just about every roadside vantage point and after another short drive we happened upon a decent flock of Geese near to Sirbma that we felt deserved more than a cursory glance. On closer inspection it seemed to consist of a mixture of booth Taiga and Tundra Bean Geese and was a great learning opportunity for anyone that doesn’t get to see these species on a regular basis. A short while later at Ala-Jalva we picked up another pair of Rough-legged Buzzard and just a few more kilometres up the road after a scan around the hills and mountains of Horma we added another 8 to our day tally! After this the species became so common place especially as we entered Norway and the Varanger Peninsula that we stopped listing them.

Rough-legged Buzzards and Arctic Skuas were so common place that we stopped counting them! 

As we continued our drive north it felt strange to be leaving Finland little more than 12 hours after arriving and especially after such a great welcome from the birds and wildlife! Nevertheless, the views and scenery along the Karasjohka river kept us enthralled and we knew that we would be back in just a couple of days to pick up where we had left off. We finally arrived at the boarder situated at Tana Bru and were relieved to find a fuel station that had a shop with food and drink in it. We had contemplated splitting the single orange and single dog biscuit that Bob had inadvertently managed to smuggle in his luggage as hunger was setting in! Naively we hadn’t really prepared for the lack of amenities in the north of Finland and were now starting to feel the discomfort of a missed breakfast and lunch so we made sure that the car was brimming full of snacks and drinks just in case we got caught out again on our journey.

Thankfully after a belly full of food, coffee and sugary sweets our energy levels were restored and as the journey progressed through Norway, so the scenery and wildlife subjects started to change. As we ambled along taking in the sights the tundra landscape started to become much more apparent and as the Varangerfjord revealed itself, new subjects were starting to show. Wherever we gazed, our eyes would pick up pairs of Golden Plovers or Lapwing holding territory, White-tailed Eagles seemed to be positioned purposefully at every inlet or bay and loose flocks of Bean Geese and Whooper Swans could be seen fuelling up in any small fields free of snow. Yet the biggest awe-inspiring sight was that of breeding Arctic Skuas acrobatically flying over these same tundra, fields and bays trying to keep rivals out of their territories or stealing food from a passing Gull or Auk. As you would expect, each little coastal village had its own little harbour and we scoured them all thoroughly as we needed to see Eiders in the hope that we were not to late to see one or two rarer ducks amongst them. We had some hopes pinned on the famous spot at Nesseby that has so much local and bird watching history associated with it. Sadly, the weather and tide conditions were not good here on the day and we had to leave contented by the stunning peacefulness and scenery of the place.

Whopper Swans were abundant and were frequently seen grazing in fields and paddocks.

Nesseby Church has surely got to be one of the most recognised bird watching spots in Norway?

After lots of driving and many hours awake, my attention and enthusiasm had started to wane! Surely our continual efforts and scanning would come up trumps eventually and we would set eyes on one of our desired prizes? We knew how to check such bays and coastal spots having grown up and bird watched in Cornwall all of our lives! I just needed to be patient. So, we continued our journey checking every likely looking spot as we went until we arrived in what appeared to be a much larger town and harbour called Vadsø. Apart from the harbour looking really promising for birds it also seemed a great place to stop and rest for awhile whilst enjoying the Norwegian culture and way of life. We pulled up by the harbour for a cursory scan and we caught glimpse of a large raft of Common Eiders milling around the Harbour, Bob started to scope these and soon picked out something a little more interesting! After some deep concentration he said “you need to look at this bird. I am certain it’s a female Steller’s Eider”! Our perseverance had paid off and we were finally looking at one of the rarer cousins that we were worried had already departed to breeding grounds. To top it off, I caught glimpse of another interesting individual at the other end of the harbour and soon loaded Bob back into the car so we could head over and investigate properly. It was definitely worth the effort as when we pulled up there were a whole raft of Steller’s and Common Eider all over the place including some really pristine gaudy males. What a bird and what a place! We spent a real age with these birds taking time to admire them fully and enjoy them individually as well as collectively and proceeded to count 58 individuals in and around Vadsø. We only really took our eyes off them to admire a Long-tailed Skua that came into the harbour hounding a Kittiwake and to watch a flock of over 30 Purple Sandpipers come into roost on a nearby pier.

 

Drake and Duck Steller's Eider were a pleasure to see and we were delighted to get to study this species in relatively close proximity.

Reinvigorated by an amazing looking lifer and such great western palearctic tick we didn’t want our day to end so continued up the coast of the Varangerfjord to see what else we could pick up. The scenery and volume of bird and wildlife is just so difficult to justify and quantify and everywhere you looked there was either something of note or it was just simply beautiful to look at! What is even better is that there is so many spots that you can pull over and take it all in and there is hardly any traffic to contend with either. It’s a real birders paradise that everyone should visit at least once if they can. After about 45 minutes we hit another well-known birding spot called Kiberg this quaint little harbour village makes you feel like you have gone back in time 100 years and there are some beautiful old wooden houses that the local Kittiwakes choose as nesting locations.

Kibeg harbour was worth every minute spent there as it was awe-inspiring both for wildlife and scenery! 

There was a huge abundance of Kittiwake in the area and it was a delight to see them nesting on the traditionally built Norwegian fishing lodges. 

The village is enclosed by a stone harbour wall and as we neared the end we decided to park and have a scan of the sea. We were so pleased we did, as it was one of the best spectacles I think either of us had ever witnessed! Large rafts of gulls, auks and seabirds were in a frenzy less than 100 meters out and there was so much to look at, take in and try and digest it was quite breath taking. We were unsure what was causing this dramatic scene until several Minke Whales of various sizes started to break the surface for air before clearly heading down to feed on the shoals of bait fish below. Harbour Porpoises also started to appear clearly getting in on the action and another species of Whale that Bob and I were unfamiliar with. It was a lighter tone of grey compared to the Minke’s but similar in size yet had a bulbous forehead and beaked like appearance. On further investigation once back in the UK we now believe this was most likely a Northern Bottlenose Whale!

We were getting some pretty awesome birds too. A Snow Bunting flock consisting of over 30 birds were buzzing around the car. Our first Glaucous Gull sailed out of the harbour to join the feeding party, another Long-tailed Skua was trying its luck with the smaller species present. Long-tailed Ducks seemed to be streaming past in amazing numbers and then I picked up an Auk that I didn’t recognise and knew that Bob needed to see it as well. Not the easiest feat with so many birds around on a lumpy bit of sea but he got it remarkably quick! We scrutinised it, talked over the identification features and couldn’t quite believe that we had another lifer for the day, this time in the form of a Brunnich’s Guillemot! This place was epic and if we weren’t feeling the effects of such a long day we would have never peeled ourselves away.

Brunnich’s Guillemot was the icing on the cake at an already exciting spot! 

But we needed to think about getting some well-earned rest and get to our final destination. Just a few miles up the road we had one final stop at Svartnes Harbour were we picked up another 15 Steller’s Eider, 3 Glaucous Gull and a beautiful drake Long-tailed Duck. The perfect ending to our days birding and all we had left to do was drive through the 3-kilometre undersea tunnel to our home for the night on the Island of Vardøya.

Day 2 - 9^th May 2022

After a 36-hour stint without sleep and the 7 lifers from yesterday still firmly in the forefront of my mind I was hopeful that today might be a little more leisurely! We were planning on heading to Hamningberg as it was renowned for White-billed Diver passage which would be a lifer for me and there was also a really good chance Bob would get a lifer in the form of King Eider at the same location. All exciting stuff, but we couldn’t leave Vardo without first taking an hour to enjoy the seabird breeding colony that breeds on neighbouring Reinøya Island and viewable from a purpose built hide on a nearby peninsula. The volume of birds was immense and you could scope literally every single European breeding Auk from the same seat! Even though it was a very cold and windy spot it was a sheer pleasure, and it was great to get some more views of Brunnich’s Guillemot. But it was time to set off and make the most of the remaining morning hours.

First stop was to recheck Svartnes Harbour which still had the 20 Steller’s Eider on parade but nothing new, so we headed in the Hamningberg direction only to find a large barricade in the road about 2 kilometres from our starting point! That wasn’t a good sign, but Bob sent some messages to local contacts who suggested getting an update from a local hotel just in case it was a temporary closure. After a quick call they confirmed our worst fear, the road was shut due to the amount of snow fall in recent days. It was unlikely to open for at least another 24 hours! Had each of the lifers been impossible to catch up with in the UK we may well have waited it out but decided that our time was precious and that we should meander back through Varanger and recheck some of the areas that we had done yesterday and spend some more time in areas that we thought looked good. 

Now that we had a bit more of a relaxed approach to the day we started to stop and scan pleasant looking spots and areas where we thought the habitat looked like it might host a surprise or two! This paid off quite quickly as we picked up something singing that we couldn’t place straightaway. Bob had a good idea what it was but wanted to be sure, so he popped his mobile phone out the window playing the same song back. It was then that I caught site of the bird as it came to investigate; a gorgeous Shorelark that was accompanied by 2 others. It was really awesome to see them on their actual breeding grounds so far up in the Arctic Circle. What was also apparent in the area was the amount of Snow Buntings. They were just about everywhere, and we even encountered one flock consisting of over 100 birds!

Really delighted to see Shorelark on their breeding grounds despite the harsh conditions! 

Equally pleased to see so many Snow Buntings and the large flocks were a real spectacle. 

On our gentle cruise back down the fjord we spent an hour exploring Ekkerøy Island which is another spot that has a tremendous birding history but sadly all we could pick up of note was 2 Black-throated Diver. Slightly more unexpected were 2 Common Crane on the roadside just south of the island and happily feeding with good numbers of Bean Geese. It was interesting to see a species that you normally associate with warmer climes perfectly at home in the Arctic. Further on our journey and heading back to Finland we opted for another check of Vadsø Harbour which was as productive as the previous day but nothing different was apparent, yet the 20+ Steller’s Eider feeding in the outer harbour seemed like a fitting farewell from Varanger Fjord and indeed Norway. Whilst we still had several hours drive ahead of us, we were content that we had seen everything that we wanted too and would be leaving with memories that will last entire lifetime.  

Varanger Fjord was an incredible place with some outstanding scenery. 

White-tailed Eagle were very abundant along the coast of the Varanger Fjord.

As we re-entered Finland, perhaps a day earlier than planned but still with huge contentment from our Norway visit, we couldn’t resist another stop at Neljän Tuulen Tupa Café in better weather and lighting conditions. Whilst 10 Pine Grosbeak and lots of Brambling kept us entertained for an hour or so, there were fewer Redpoll present when compared with yesterday and we suspected this was due to the improved conditions. However, more Cranes and our first Reed Bunting of the trip added to the magic of the place. We continued south at a leisurely pace and as time was on our side, we choose to stay at the Ivalo Hotel which was a little bit more upmarket than we normally opt for on our trips, but a bit of luxury and a well-stocked bar were surely deserved after the hours we had already put in! 

The drive from Finland to Norway and back was stunning and around every corner was yet another breathtaking area  to admire. 

Day 3 - 10^th May 2022

After a relaxing evening and a good night’s sleep, we were up and out at 4am and ready to make the most of some new birding terrain. Sadly, the weather had taken a turn for the worse and we had some heavy drizzle to contend with, but we ploughed on despite this minor setback. We opted to start at some nearby holiday lodges where one of our target species had been seen in the recent past. We got lucky straight away as 2 Willow Grouse were feeding on the side of the track and we had some great views and a chance to take in the finer details of this Grouse that is likely to be upgraded to a full species in the near future. After a scour of the area and some great encounters with more Red Squirrels and Mountain Hares there was little more we could turf up in the conditions so made plans to move on to our next target area.

Willow Grouse were quite "gettable" in the right habitat in Finland. 

Again, we consulted our “Gosney” guide and decided to try the forest situated along the road to Kiilopää, which essentially, was a long and wide gravel track that went on for about 20 kilometres. It didn’t take long for us to start picking up some real quality birds as we came across some groups of female Capercaillie on the side of the track where they collect small stones to help them break up and digest their food within the gizzard. A little deeper into the wood and we picked up another female type Grouse but this one even at a distance looked different and not so hefty as the Capercaillie we had been encountering. We edge a little closer and our suspicions were confirmed it was a Black Grouse and our first of the trip! Not much further down the road we encountered an absolutely cracking male Capercaillie in all his breeding finery.

Female Capercaillie were a surprisingly frequent sight and we took our time to admire them as often as possible! But this lekking male was an incredible and memorable encounter!

Eventually we got to the spot recommended in our guide book and started listening and taking in the sights and sounds around us. Goldcrest seemed abundant in the area and a small flock of Crossbill’s were frequenting the area but annoyingly we could not pin them down and get views despite a dedicated effort! Though this did lead to us finding a couple of Pine Grosbeak settled and feeding gently quite close to us. A meander up the track also resulted in another vocal Siberian Tit which protested to our presence and then quickly vanished. But we still hadn’t seen our target bird! What were we doing wrong? We had a discussion about tactics, and Bob said “I am just going to play its call for a couple of minutes and see what that does.” About 1 minute later a shape swooped in and we knew we had hit jackpot! It took a few more agonising seconds but eventually a sublime Siberian Jay perched right above us and wondered who the hell was making all that racket on his patch. What delightful characters they are. Well worth the effort and the early morning start for such an obliging and gaudy lifer. We had our fill and were delighted with our morning’s effort so made out way to the next location.

It was hard not to fall in love with Siberian Jays as they were beautiful and had real personality to match! 

Despite the abysmal weather we decided to spend a short time at the top of a nearby summit called Kaunispää in the hopes of finding a Ptarmigan. Sadly, we didn’t have any luck finding any notable birds but it sure was beautiful up there and the views were breath-taking. A little beaten by the weather and content with the morning lifer we decided that we would head further south during the afternoon and just birdwatch any likely looking spots along our journey. 

Even though the weather was poor on top of Kaunispää, the views were incredible! 

Something that we learned from our morning at Kiilopää and that would stand us in good stead for the rest of the trip was that all the “good” birds seemed fixated on the mature larch trees! As we neared this type of habitat on our journeys, we would stop the car and give it a bit of time; sure enough we started picking up some quality birds. One particular stretch of road around Lampela on the 9136 was particularly good and various stops along it yielded 2 Capercaillie and 6 Waxwing that were paired up and it was great to see them on their breeding territories where they seemed very relaxed and approachable. 

Waxwing is got to be one of the best looking birds in Europe and finding them on breeding territories was really exciting! 

Another stop rewarded us with something a little more exciting! We were driving very slowly through some promising looking Larch trees and I noticed a bulky finch fly up off the ground and into the top of a tree. I took a couple of snaps of the bird in question and was pleased to see it was a female Crossbill that seemed to have a pretty hefty bill! I was pretty convinced it was a Parrot Crossbill which was a lifer for me but wanted to be sure. Bob and I did some investigation and came to the conclusion that it certainly fitted the correct criteria and to reinforce our thoughts we asked a local ringer that I had recently had talks with. He agreed that it looked correct for Parrot and that was good enough for me to add another lifer to an already fabulous trip list!

This female Parrot Crossbill was a great bird to learn from and an unforgettable occasion for me! 

The rest of the day and journey was pretty uneventful in terms of new encounters, but we were clearly now in an area that was good for Grouse, and we picked up several more Capercaillie and Black Grouse as we neared our accommodation. We felt it was a good omen for tomorrow’s venture and couldn’t wait for the next morning! 

Day 4 - 11^th May 2022

We had stationed ourselves at Kuusamo in the east of Finland. It has a reputation for a rich and diverse natural history within the ancient woodland found throughout this district. Despite having a morning tour booked in the area with guides, Finnature the next day, we were keen to get out and explore some of the sites that we had read so much about and use the tour as a bit of a failsafe should we dip some of our desired targets.

We started our morning at a legendary spot called Valtavaara which has some incredibly rich woodland but is also very accessible as it has a road network throughout the area so the birding possibilities were endless! The morning started well and as we pulled up in the parking area we were greeted by 4 Siberian Jays playfully chasing one another around the area. We were going to walk into the wood and try and find some other species on our target list but the heavy snow and remote location swayed our decision and we decided to wait until we were in the presence of tomorrows tour guides that knew the area and could keep us safe! In the meantime we adopted our usual tactic and meandered through the lanes and stopped at spots that looked productive. This gained us quite the list of birds and included some real quality that included 30 Red Crossbill, a probable male Parrot Crossbill, 6 Capercaillie, 20 Black Grouse including 8 lekking males, 1 Willow Grouse,  2 Willow Tit, 2 Redstart, Tree Pipits everywhere, 2 Whimbrel and it was amazing to see winnowing Snipe, Green Sandpipers & Greenshanks quite regularly on our travels! As the morning progressed so did my need to answer a call of nature, so I got out the car to find a suitable “wee” spot but also took the opportunity to stretch my legs and wonder up the road for 50 yards. I sure am glad that I did as I flushed a Hazel Grouse almost from beneath my feet! This was a first for me and I was so pleased to see this whirring winged beauty as they really do have a reputation as a pretty sulky species and I was worried that it would elude me on this trip.

After a morning of great birding and some spectacular scenery our bellies were rumbling and we fancied doing something different whilst fuelling back up. With us both being Gull lovers, we couldn’t resist heading to the local rubbish dump that was covered in our “Gosney” guide. It seemed like the perfect place to stop and eat lunch! Sadly, on investigation the site wasn’t as accessible as it had been when Gosney explored it in the past and the main tip is now obscured from view. Despite this we did still manage to see a good candidate 2nd calendar year Heuglin’s Gull and it was great to see more displaying Green Sandpiper and 2 Greenshank.

After we had rested, eaten and enjoyed the sights and smells of the local tip it was time to get back to some proper business! We decided to check out another spot referred to in the “Gosney” guide called the Koskenkylä Forest. Similar to this mornings habitat but with more water bodies entwined along the route. Just like everywhere in this area it was incredible for Grouse and at the end of our drive we had clocked up 21 Capercaillie, 10 Black Grouse and 2 Willow Grouse! Fieldfare, Redwing and Brambling were (just like everywhere in Finland), very abundant and at times deafening when in full song. The route also harboured some other special passerines and I picked up a small party of birds feeding on the ground at the side of the road that warranted checking. Once stopped I had a scan and was pleased to see 10 Red Crossbill making the most of some discarded seed. Just beyond these was a totally different bird that caught my attention and looked somewhat different. I couldn’t believe my luck when I honed in on a super female Rustic Bunting! We were pleased with this find as they are not the easiest birds to locate, even here. Whilst enjoying the Bunting another bird proclaimed its presence that we were almost as chuffed to see. A stunning male and female Northern Bullfinch joined in on the feeding action and were delightful to study both visually and vocally!  

Sadly I only got poor photos due to the light and car wind screen but we were delighted to find our own Rustic Bunting!

Once we had our fill and the flock dispersed we carried along on our route and were reward with some further quality birds. 2 Redstarts could be heard singing as we trickled along in the car and then the distinctive whistling call of another Hazel Grouse! We then neared a water body and I had a scan I was really pleased to see a pristine pair of Smew among the Red-breasted Mergansers and Goldeneye and it was the first time I had seen a male of the species. What a great looking duck this is!

My first drake Smew was a real treat! 

A Common Crane called from a bank on the other side of the water and Whooper Swans were numerous here too. It wasn’t much further along and Bob called out “Harrier”! We jumped out of the car and grabbed a couple of record shots of it passing overhead which were enough to confirm it was a female Pallid Harrier! On our way back out of the area about an hour later Bob picked up a 2nd bird which although distant was probably a male of the same species. It was a great visit and a fantastic area for birds that I think we would both recommend people explore if in the neighbourhood.

Pallid Harrier added to the excitement of the day! 

Even though it was still fairly early in the day we decided to go back to our accommodation and get some rest as tomorrow we needed to be up super early and had a fair bit of travelling to do as well!

Day 5 - 12^th May 2022

Today we had an early start and were up and out of bed by 02:15 am as we were due to meet our Finnature guides at a nearby car park no later than 03:00 am! On arrival we were warmly welcomed by Mikko Oivukka and his assistant Juho Salo who were both keen to get us loaded in the minibus and making the most of the very early morning. We made our way to several local spots where our first targets included Willow and Hazel Grouse that were currently waking from their chosen roost spots. The guides did a great job of getting us cracking views of both species but also many Capercaillie including another displaying male and lots of lekking Black Grouse! As the morning progressed we also tried several Rustic Bunting sites and had superb results at many, albeit getting a bird to perch for photographs was a seemingly impossible task!  

We had some fabulous views of yet more Capercaillie and female Black Grouse and at a distance it was surprising how tricky it could be to separate these two Grouse species. 

As the morning progressed it was time to get into some woodland for some of the more tricky species and we were pleased to see we were taken back to Valtavaara Forest. The Siberian Jays were still frolicking around the car park area and today the snow seemed to have melted somewhat and we were glad to see that we were being ushered along a path and into the wood. Even though the snow had melted it was still quite treacherous as we were led up a steep path that had a 50mm layer of ice formed over the top of it. Bob was in front of me and I could see he was starting to slip and slowed up to gain a better grip. “Sod waiting around for him” I thought to myself. So I stepped around him and tried in vain to catch up to the guide that seemed to navigate the slope like a mountain goat! 

My haste, speed and karma all caught up with me and about 40 yards later my feet slid out from under me and I ended up in a big heap on the floor, unhurt but struggling to gain enough grip to regain my balance and continue on the journey. At this point, Bob had conquered the art of ice walking and I was relieved to see him heading my way. I firmly believed he was going to help his fat old buddy up to his feet so that we could continue the perilous trek together. Sadly, his concern and attention was focused on my camera and he took it from me to check that it hadn’t been damaged in the fall! Once he knew that it was alright he left me wriggling on the floor like an upturned tortoise and continued on his merry way! It is great that after 30 years of friendship we have such care and concern for one another.

I finally made it to my feet dusted myself off and made my way to the guides and the rest of the party that were by now stood around gazing at the top of one of the trees. On arrival Mikko pointed to the top of a nearby tree and said “there is a Red-flanked Bluetail singing from here”. Sure enough when I got my bins fixated on the spot and my ears tuned into the local environment I could see and hear a pristine male giving it his all. What a superb bird and well worth the trails and tribulations to get to him.

This Red-flanked Bluetail put on a fabulous show and was well worth the bumps and bruises endured to view him.  

After several minutes of enjoying this beautiful bird, Juho came back from a higher vantage point and suggested that they play Three-toed Woodpecker on the speakers as he had heard one calling not far from our location. Mikko started playing the call and within seconds a female came swooping in right above our heads! She never really settled and although we had great views sporadically it was almost impossible to photograph her. A little while later a glorious male swooped in to see what she was fussing about and once together they decided to head off into the canopy and out of site. Two cracking lifers for me and all within the space of 10 minutes!   

The real icing on the cake during our woodland visit was the Three-toed Woodpecker pair! 

We went to many more locations during the course of the morning and although we didn’t see anything new or different we had a brilliant list of birds that included: 40 Black Grouse , 23 Capercaillie, 3 Hazel Grouse, 5 Willow Grouse, Whinchat, Red-flanked Bluetail, 10 Rustic Bunting, 3 Smew, 2 Three-toed Woodpecker, 5 Siberian Jay, 2 Siberian Tit, 20+ Little Gull, 2 Pine Grosbeak, 10+ Parrot Crossbill and 2 Black-throated Diver. The only negative aspect was that it was a real shame that Finnature couldn’t find any of the Owl species for us and if we didn’t have a back up plan we would have been pretty disappointed! We did contact them to see if they could point us in the right direction when we were back in the Oulu area but they wanted another £600 for the privilege. If you would like to find out more about the tours please visit their website found here:  https://finnature.fi/en/ But be aware that you may not see any Owls on your own visit! 

It was a pleasure to see Black-throated Divers in their breeding finery. 

Little Gulls were just heading back to breeding locations during our stay. The locals were quite excited to see this! 

Cappercaillie, Siberian Jay and Red-flanked Bluetail were all abundant in Kuusamo.

Even though we had been on the tour for 8 hours it was only just late morning. We decided that we would start heading to the west of the country near the Swedish border and where we had another contact and some other target species to try for over the next couple of days. It was a three hour drive and we were entertained by the odd Capercaillie still feeding late into the morning on the side of the roads. It didn’t seem long before we were pulling up at the Savotta Cabins where we would be staying for the rest of our stay in Finland. We couldn’t have chosen a better spot as a quick exploration of the grounds and nearby river rewarded us with 3 Northern Bullfinch, 4 Pied Flycatcher, 4 Common Tern and countless Goldeneye! I was glad to hit the bed for an hour or two and catch up on some rest and dream about the incredible birds I had already seen on the trip.

Fieldfare were very common in Finland but seemed especially so at Savotta Cabins.

Our accommodation at Savotta Cabins was charming and really added to the pleasure of staying in the area. 

After I awoke from my slumber, refreshed but still a little achy from my morning we started discussing what to do for the rest of the late afternoon and evening. So I sent a message to local bird ringer and all-round great guy, Matti Suopajärvi. He suggested that we take a look at some local fields near to Ootsorvantie that were renowned for hosting some great birds. Once there he would meet us and discuss how he might be able to help us see some other species we had yet to catch up with on our trip. The Ootsorvantie Fields were superb and we had great views of displaying Ruffs that were lekking in loose flocks all over the place! This spectacle was soon interrupted by a Short-eared Owl that started to quarter the field displacing the many Curlew, Lapwing and other waders as it searched every last inch.

Lekking Ruff could be watched for hours and in the right habitat they could be very prolific! 

After a short while exploring this magical area we meant up with Matti and "chewed the cud" for a short while before he said that he was going to head into the wood to check a Great Grey Owl nest ledge and change the batteries he had in a surveillance camera that overlooked the site. Although he wasn’t sure that there would be any Owls present as they had yet to show any signs of breeding. Bob and I (though unprepared for the offer), were really interested to see the site and nesting ledge so happily traipsed behind him as quickly as we could go despite an unfamiliarity with the terrain and habitat. Matti on the other hand was obviously a seasoned pro and marched off like a long dog! We kept up as best we could and were ducking branches and jumping ditches with all the grace that a Hippo would show! Finally Matti slowed up but not before flushing a couple of Hazel Grouse which he informed us were very prolific in the area. 

Above us was a large wooden ledge and Matti proceeded to climb the tree using all the correct safety gear to change the batteries in the monitoring camera. I was slumped against a tree catching my breath and watching the process with interest when Bob said, “ you need to come here, I have one”! I quickly made my way to where he was stood and there some 20 meters in front of us a beautiful male Great Grey Owl was watching us almost as mesmerised as we were with it! What a stunning bird and completely unexpected. When we got back to the car we couldn’t thank Matti enough and were so chuffed to have had such an exhilarating encounter! But our evening and days surprises were not over yet.

Words cannot describe how magnificent the Great Grey Owl is and it is a birding memory that will last with me for the rest of my life.

One of Matti's nesting ledges that seem to be very popular with the Great Grey owls. 

After our conversations progressed Matti exclaimed, “you better follow me home. I think I have something else you will want to see”. So as you would in a foreign country, we followed the man we had just met to his home in the middle of nowhere to see what else he had on offer! 

On arrival, Matti fetched a small set of steps and carted us over to a nest box just 10 meters from his house. He pointed for us to pop up the steps and take a look in the box at which point two bright yellow eyes stared back at us! We were delighted to see a seriously alert breeding female Tengmalm’s Owl  staring back at us, wondering who was making all that noise! What a brilliant end to our day and another fabulous long-fored lifer in the bag.   

Mrs Tengmalm’s Owl was very surprised to see us! 

Day 6 - 13th of May 2022

After yesterdays success and after a much needed good nights sleep we had a slightly later start, but were still up and on the road before 6am. We started our day at an old Quarry near Pekkala as there were breeding Nutcrackers reported from here but they were incredibly skulky when nesting so we had little chance of seeing them. We gave it a couple of hours and had a great list of birds and some brilliant views of Common Redpoll and other finches but no luck with our intended target so it was time to call it a day and go and meet up with Matti again as he had another surprise waiting for us in another nearby wood.  

Common (or Mealy as I prefer) Redpoll were putting on a great display around the Pekkala forest. 

We met Matti near a forest called Mykkä and had a lovely time meeting his dogs and talking about the birds in the area and some of the ringing studies that he carries out. The area was alive with birds and we had 1 Capercaillie, 1 Grey-headed Woodpecker, 3 Pied Flycatcher, ring-tail Hen Harrier, a pair of Common Crossbill, 6 Hazel Grouse and  9 Common Crane in a very short space of time and with little effort at all. However, it was time to go into the wood and see what Matti had lined up for us. 

A flyover Hen Harrier added to the excitement of the forests at Mykka. 

Pied Flycatchers also put on a super show near our parked car. 

We had only walked in about 100 yards when Matti pointed at a large nest box on a tree. As we neared he plugged the hole and ushered me to take the lid off and have a look. Inside, was a charming female Pygmy Owl sat tight on a clutch of eggs! I was absolutely ecstatic as this was a lifer that I really hoped we would get on this trip. However, I did make a fool of myself in the process! A few days prior when discussing the species I did give Bob a real harsh ribbing when he said to me "they are really small Pete". "No shit Sherlock. The word Pygmy really gives that a way doesn't it" I replied. So what was the first thing that left my mouth after seeing it? You guessed it, "they are really small aren't they Bob"! 

This brooding Pygmy Owl really was small! 

Contented with our morning but with the rest of the day ahead of us, our attention changed to another Owl species that we really hoped to see but had yet to bump into. We had a conversation with Matti who informed us that Hawk Owl wasn't having such a good year in Finland and they were actually really difficult to come by. He had heard of a bird in Putkivaara forests but this was sometime ago and he was unsure if it was just passing through or if it was still there. He gave us some coordinates and sent us on our merry way.  

We headed to the locations that Matti had left us with, but sadly all of these areas were devoid of Hawk Owls so we decided as the area looked promising we would continue along the road to see if we could find our own spots to check. The excitement of the morning and a week of solid birding had finally caught up with me so I swapped driving duties with Bob and as soon as I was in the passenger seat I went into a deep sleep! Bob was having a whale of a time and had a great list of birds including 1 Willow Grouse, 2 Black Grouse, 2 Wood Sandpiper, 3 Hazel Grouse and a male Redstart. 

I am not sure how long I did snooze for but suddenly the car slowed and Bob woke me up quite abruptly. "Pete I am not sure I should drive through this"! I came around from my doze and was confronted with a 25 meter long snow and ice patch around 30 cm deep. In my slumbered state I said "I think it will be ok, just don't stop once you get on it". Perhaps this wasn't the brightest decision either of us had made, as after about 5 meters the car started veering violently from side to side and our grip was really not great! Either side of the road was an 8 ft. deep ditch and we would have never got the car out if we were to end up in there. Thankfully and quite miraculously Bob kept his composure and we did make it! But it certainly woke me up and we were glad to be back on a gravel track and safe once more. 

A short while later we came across another clearing in the forest and decided to have a break and regain our nerves before heading on any further. I had a scan with the bins and couldn't quite believe our luck! There in the distance and slightly obscured by heat haze was a Hawk Owl hunting and flying from tree to tree. What an incredible sight and well worth risking our safety and the hire car for! We sat and watched it for some time and got some great views albeit distantly but were delighted to find our very own specimen. 

Hawk Owl really was one of our most desired targets and we were both joyous and relieved to finally see this intriguing species. 

Camberwell Beauty was also abundant in the forest clearings in this area. 

After such an eventful and rewarding day we decided that, as it was now late afternoon we should venture off and see if we could find a meal as well as head a little closer to our base as we had another little evening plan. Once refreshed and bellies filled, we headed back to the fields near Ootsorvantie. Just like yesterday evening they were alive with Ruff and other waders. We were also seeing Swallows for the first time during the trip and these were presumably recently returned migrants? The Short-eared Owl was again quartering the fields and making the most of the sunny evening much to the disgust of the local Skylarks. Over the trees in the distance I picked up another raptor that looked interesting and as it came closer it turned out to be a handsome Goshawk soaring over the woodland glade. 

But we were back out for the evening for another reason. Matti had told us of a location where we might be lucky enough to see Great Grey Owl out and hunting if we were patient. On the drive to the location we were already enthralled with the area and had great views of 15 Northern Bullfinch, 10 Black Grouse, some Common Crossbills and even Northern Wheatears that were apparently on the move! After many stops to admire so many birds we eventually pulled up to a layby over looking a clear fell area near Kalkkimaa. We were rewarded straight away as a Short-eared Owl was hunting the area and kept us entertained whilst we waited for the light to drop. A Whinchat was in full song from the moment we arrived and rarely stopped all evening. As dusk set in the nearby Hazel Grouse became very vocal and the area was obviously incredibly good for them. But it was some time before we laid eyes on our real target. In fact we were just driving away when the Great Grey Owl swooped just in front the car and into dense woodland. Sadly not photographable but a great memorable occasion and a great ending to our day.

Northern Bullfinch were abundant on the road to Kalkkimaa.

Brambling was incredibly common in Finland and you could see or hear them just about everywhere you traveled or stopped. 

Short-eared Owls put on a fabulous display around Ootsorvantie and Kalkkimaa.

Day 7 - 14th May 2022

Sadly, today would be our last full day of birding in Finland so we wanted to make the most of it in-between packing and organising for our flight back tomorrow. We wanted to maximise on our experience and Western Palearctic list opportunities, so opted to head back to the Pekkala Forest area and try again for the Nutcrackers. We arrived earlier that morning and were greeted by a Grey-headed Woodpecker “yaffaling” in the near distance. Hazel Grouse were also vocal and moving out of their roosts and on their daily hunt for juniper berries. Yesterday’s abundance of Redpoll, Brambling and other finches was also apparent again this morning and wherever we looked we seem to find something of interest. As exciting as the birding was in this area, time was ticking on, and we had packing to do! I got my phone out and gave a couple blasts of Nutcracker from the speaker to see if I could drum up some interest. No sign of any Nutcrackers but the local Jays went berserk! I left it 20 minutes and then did the same again. This time in the distance we thought we heard one reply but were unsure. However, the Jays were even more agitated this time and letting out aggressive calls at something not far from us. Then out the corner of my eye I clocked an entirely different bird! Thankfully Bob had locked on to it as well and although the view was all to fleeting, we had finally managed to see a Nutcracker. Despite our patience, once it knew who was responsible for all of the commotion it slipped away into the dense woodland and never showed again. Still at least our venture was successful, and we had another lifer in the bag! We finished our morning taking in the sights and sounds of the nearby forests and farmland but didn’t turn up anything new or different, but it was still an absolute pleasure to explore this location and view the abundance of bird life it had on offer.

We headed back to our lodge to sort the luggage out, make sure the paperwork was organised and have a rest before the more productive birding hours of evening set in. I even managed to have another leisurely snooze. Bob slipped out to do some more birding around our accommodation and had lots of Pied Flycatchers, as well as a female Pintail, Crossbill’s, 2 Red-breasted Merganser and 1 Woodcock. By the time he had gotten back it was time to head out again and see what the evening had on offer.

Red Crossbill were regular on our travels throughout Finland. 

We started at the fields near Ootsorvantie where 2 Short-eared Owls were out quartering the fields once more. Another Goshawk could also be seen heading over the woodland again. It always amazes me how much showier they seem to be in Europe compared with the small population we have in Cornwall nowadays! We also picked up a Hen Harrier making the most of the food rich fields and then picked up a different Harrier that needed more careful scrutiny. It wasn’t easy to sort out as the sun was very bright and intense so as quickly as we could pick the bird up, we would lose it again. Finally, we got the views needed to confirm it was a ring-tailed Pallid Harrier! Our raptor list didn’t stop there either as we headed along the gravel track and into some more intensive agricultural fields a Rough-legged Buzzard was making the most of the evening light. This was the first one we had seen in this area of Finland interestingly.

We were really pleased to get prolonged views of Hen Harrier hunting the fields near Oostevatran.

But were especially happy to pick up another Pallid Harrier! 

We headed to the clear fell area near Kalkkimaa again, but we had hardly been there for 5 minutes when I got a message from Matti to say that he had found another pair of Hawk Owls nearby and that we should probably head to the spot as the views would be better and closer than we had the previous day, and boy was he right! After a very short car journey we neared the clear fell quite near to Pekkalla and straight away could hear and see a Black Woodpecker going crazy! Sure enough, the Hawks Owls had chosen to nest in a tree right next to a Black Woodpecker nest! Not the most peaceful coexistence but a testament to how healthy and food rich the area must be. I cannot describe how thrilling it was to see Hawk Owls arguing with Black Woodpeckers and then having the chance to see the Owls food passing and hunting in the area. A once in a lifetime moment that I will always look back on fondly!

This Black Woodpecker was really not happy to be sharing a home so close to a pair of Hawk Owls! 

However, the Hawk Owls seem to be finding plenty of food in their chosen location. 

We headed back to the clear fell area near Kalkkimaa and had wonderful views of another male Hen Harrier a female Capercaillie and the Short-eared Owl but no sign of the Great Grey sadly. However, we did have our best views of a Hazel Grouse which decided to roost in a bush right next to the road. It was the perfect way to end our exhilarating evening! We were both sad to be leaving the next day. 

Hazel Grouse were very frequently encountered on our trip but seemed particularly abundant in the west near to Tornio. 

Day 8 - 15th May 2022

Whilst we had achieved everything we could have hoped for and more in terms of birds seen and places travelled, we still had a morning free before our return journey back to the UK that afternoon. So we opted to rise early again and head to a famed wetland just outside of Oulu called Laminka Bay. It is well known for its importance as a migration site as well as a breeding ground for many important species in Finland.  

The facilities at Laminka were superb, especially the décor inside the café! 

During the late 1970s, the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) noted the need for the protection of Liminka Bay, when the drying of the wetland was planned in Lumijoki.  After negotiations that were participated by Metsähallitus and WWF, the area for the first birdwatching tower was rented. In 1982, Liminka Bay was included in the Finnish Waterfowl Habitats Conservation Programme and it received the status of an internationally valuable bird wetland. Today it remains as one of the most important sites for birds in Scandinavia. It has fantastic facilities that mirror that of any RSPB flagship reserve in the UK and if you are near Oulu you should definitely make an effort to visit this place. 

The bay was expansive and there was something interesting to see wherever you looked! 

We were excited as soon as we entered the carpark as Tree Sparrows were making themselves know from the nearby hedgerow as were singing Pied Flycatchers and Northern Willow Warblers. It didn't stop there either, lekking Ruff could be seen very closely from the pathways and a Bittern was heard constantly booming in the near by reed bed. Peeling ourselves away from these birds was difficult but we could see a tower hide near by and couldn't wait to get up there and see what else was around. 

Pied Flycatchers could be seen really well, even in the car park! 

As could Willow Warblers of the northern race acredula 

There were some really special gaudy male Ruff lekking near to the paths. 

Once up the top we got a real feeling of just how immense this wetland was!  Bob soon locked on to a Caspian Tern sweeping the bay and flocks of Wood Sandpipers were interspersed with Temminck's Stints! We also heard an interesting call emitting from a flying passerine that was heading our way and were both chuffed to lock on to a Grey-headed Wagtail (thunbergi) heading our way. The lake itself had an incredible flock of Greater Scaup that numbered well into the hundreds! But lots of other wildfowl as well including Whopper Swans, Garganey, Northern Shoveller. There were also lots of White-tailed Eagles all over the reserve along with an Osprey and even some Spoonbills you could have stayed there for days and seen something new everyday!  But perhaps the most rewarding find was that of breeding pairs of European Black-tailed Godwits which posses a Near Threatened status globally! So it was nice to see them here in secure and prestine breeding habitat and long may that continue! 

It was great to see European Black-tailed Godwits on territory.

Common Cranes and a mass of wildfowl made this place extra special. 

Sadly our time had run out and we needed to make our way to the airport. I personally felt a real mix of emotions at that point. I had a fantastic time, in one of the most beautiful parts of the world and seen some birds and landscapes that will remain dear to me for the rest of my life. I ended the week on 17 lifers that included some real western palearctic quality. However, the untouched wilderness and hospitability from those that we met, made this trip truly special. Yes we could have gone to somewhere and seen more new birds and got a sun tan at the same time. But would I have found the experience so rewarding and fulfilling? I doubt it very much! I cannot wait to revisit Finland and Norway in the future and I would urge anybody that hasn't been to do so. You will not regret it for a single moment.